My friend drew told me a lot about the industry… here’s the notes I took.
Part IV: Cutting Techniques
Before I hand the keyboard over to Drew again, I just want to say that over the past couple weeks he really has began to put his life back together. He bought himself a new pair of shoes, as his previous pair were on their last legs being held together by duct tape and talking up a storm. They also had a significant “squeak” that you could hear a mile away. His foreman, Bob, taught him some new techniques for pruning and trimming. He sure is learning fast, and here he is to teach us.
The Drop Cut
The drop cut, otherwise known as the three point cut, is an original technique dating back to the early years of arboriculture, and appears in almost every pruning tech as a highly recommended pruning technique for removing large limbs. But we must, as always, use caution because when cutting a large limb with a chainsaw, a kerf may be created as the top cut bypasses the bottom cut. This can have a tendency to pull the chainsaw out of your hand. A good way to avoid this problem is to form the top cut directly above the under cut.
The “Mis-Match” Cut
Another very useful technique worth utilizing is called the “mis-match” cut, also known as the “snap” cut. This technique is quite handy for controlling small sections of wood that may or may not require rigging. A variation of this cut can be used to remove the final stub after removing a large limb.
The Hinge Cut
A lot of the time we use a hinge cut to control the direction of the fall of the limb. The hinge cut is a variation of a tree felling technique, it requires the use of a face notch, which allows the tree to fall without breaking the hinge prematurely, and a back cut, to form the hinge. You see, by forming a hinge, it allows us to steer the limb, and swing a limb around when lifting a limb. The use of kerf cuts on the sides, underneath the ends of the hinge, is optional but highly recommended on trees that are not being removed. It also makes it safer for the climber high up in the tree.
Part V: Pruning
A messed up apple tree
The other day, one of our clients had a really messed up apple tree, and said that over the past three years he had been trying to fix it, but it had bad examples of everything that could be wrong with a tree, so it was time for us to prune it. It had plenty of what are called “water sprouts”, which are limbs that grow at a 90 degree angle off the branch it is growing off of.
If you look closely down at the bottom of the sprout, you will see that theres sort of some wrinkly ridges of bark, and those ridges of bark contain special cells that are able to heal very quickly and close the wound that I make when I cut the branch off quickly before any disease or insects can get in. What you want to do is you want to cut just outside of that wrinkled, beveled area, and make a clean cut. When you do that, the wound will heal closed very quickly. It also had many examples of what are called “crossing branches”, which occurs when two branches rub up against each other to the point where one of them eventually breaks. Not only that, but you’re going to have a situation where you are going to have less air movement because there will be a lot of foliage in that area, so you will want to get rid of that branch.